Robert McHugh speaks to Laura Behan, general manager of Ballymaloe House, ‘a blend of historic charm and luxury experience.’
Ballymaloe House in Cork recently celebrated 60 years since it first opened its doors to the public. The family-owned hotel in East Cork has 32 bedrooms, a heated outdoor pool and a renowned restaurant first opened by Myrtle Allen.
The team at Ballymaloe House were early adopters of the farm to fork movement with a menu that changes daily using only local and seasonal produce.
Laura Behan, general manager of Ballymaloe House, recently spoke to Hospitality Ireland about her own unique career and her travels around the world.
Ballymaloe House celebrates 60 years this year. What have been the highlights?
Ballymaloe House is still doing what it has always done from the beginning. It does not just follow fads or trends. That is the big highlight.
When it started, Ivan and Myrtle had a farm and they had this lovely big house. Myrtle was cooking for all of the farmhands every day and said, "Well, why don't I use our own produce and open a restaurant in our dining room?"
That is what she did using produce on the farm that her husband was producing. We still have lots of family members in the cookery school and Darren Allen running the farm, producing pork and eggs for us.
The tradition of taking what we are producing and putting it on a plate still stands today. I think that is the main highlight of Ballymaloe and what it offers.
Tell me a little bit about your own background and where you grew up, studied etc.
I grew up in Dublin. I went to college and did Chemistry and so hospitality was not really on my radar! I got a part-time job in the then Four Seasons Ballsbridge.
I guess the rest is history. I finished college and decided to do their managing program and went to the UK, and then on to Turkey and China to work with Mandarin Oriental before returning home to Ireland. I got a job in Lyrath Estate in Kilkenny and I stayed there for a number of years before coming to Cork.
I was in the Montenotte Hotel for just over three years. Then I came down to Ballymaloe, it has been fantastic and different to anything I have ever done before. I have a passion for food and beverage. I love hospitality and have worked in all areas of hotels. However, for someone with a passion for food and beverage, Ballymaloe is the epitome of the best place to work.
What do you think was it that drew you to hospitality?
When I got the job at the Four Seasons Ballsbridge, it was because I needed a part-time job but I absolutely adored it and fell into it. I loved the buzz, I loved the go, go, go.
It just further developed my love for food from all cultures. I am widely travelled. Between all of my jobs, I tend to take three to six months off to travel the world. I love wine, that is another passion of mine.
I thought Chemistry was great but I really loved coming into work everyday at the Four Seasons. I got all my exams and passed but I just wanted to be in the hotel. It's a marmite, you either love it or hate it!
Have you had any mentors that helped you along the way?
Erhan Sabasi. He was my manager the whole time I was at the Four Seasons. He just was so dedicated and passionate about the job.
My first time working with him, I actually walked out and said I would never work with him again! But I went on to develop a great relationship with him and I ended up following him when he opened the Mandarin Oriental in Turkey.
Tell us about the ethos of Ballymaloe House.
I want to grow the business. That has been my aim since I set foot here. We have incredible grounds and a phenomenal restaurant. We currently have 32 bedrooms and I would like to add to that.
We want to get the next generation excited about what we do here. The ethos here is to try and create a luxury hospitality setting while looking after our surroundings. We make sure to produce food sustainably and we showcase well produced, beautiful food.
We have gorgeous vegetables from the garden, we just let them be rather than using too many sauces or garnishes. It is the same for the pork, we let it speak for itself rather than overdoing it.
We want people to understand that the food on their plate came from the garden this morning. It has not gone to a storage facility to be prepared, put into a van and delivered to you. We take it from the garden. It comes through what we call the 'veg hole' and it is clean, fresh and on your plate that evening. In this day and age, that is something that is super special.
What do you think are the main challenges in the industry at the moment?
Recruitment. It is about trying to get people more passionate about hospitality. It is a career, not just a part-time job that you have in your youth. It's pretty exciting and I am advocating for that.
I currently have one employee on the National Training Management Development Program, which is an office program that's been set up, and I have two more people starting in January, where they do maybe three to six weeks period in college, and for the rest of the time they are on the floor, in the hotel, learning and developing the skills to do supervisory management in the future.
It is great that we have young people who are so passionate, but we have to get more people passionate because I think we have neglected the industry for such a long time. We really need to showcase what a great job it is.
I have travelled the world doing this job. It is a great career and gives so much flexibility. I am a new mother and I have flexibility. There are so many positives to it but it has a reputation for unsocial hours. Hard work is hard work but it can be a lot of fun as well.
When I talk about the craic I have with my friends still in the pharmaceutical industry they can't believe it because it's so much fun. We need to showcase the positives and be much more proactive about work/life balance. It is about trying something different to make it an appealing workplace. It is a fulfilling and worthwhile career.
What do you like to do when you are not working?
I absolutely love traveling. I love going out for fantastic meals and I love cooking. I love cooking for friends and family.
I love getting out there and exploring this lovely county when the weather allows it. Not being from Cork, I get to discover fantastic new places all the time.
What is your favourite meal?
At the moment, the courgettes here are fantastic, so I would have to say maybe a nice mackerel with buffalo mozzarella salad, cherry tomato compote and grilled courgettes.
Fresh fish with olive salsa and broad beans from the garden is another favourite.
What is your favourite drink?
A lovely glass of white wine. Maybe a nice Chenin Blanc. We have a really good Chenin Blanc on the menu at the moment.
What is your favourite holiday destination?
The South East Coast of Turkey for the food, water and general pace of life.
Anything you would like to add?
We have just opened our first two suites on the property. We looked at our bedroom stock and what people are looking for and it is always a larger room, so we took two of our smaller rooms and incorporated them together. It is in the main part of the house, overlooking the front with beautiful views. It is called the Litchfield Suite. It is beautifully, classically decorated.
We also have the Ivy Suite in the courtyard which is little bit more contemporary and has a lovely conservatory that is perfect for having a drink in the afternoon.
