This article was originally published in the Summer 2024 issue of Hospitality Ireland Magazine, in July of 2024.
Award-winning chef Roberta Hall McCarron – who has worked at the Burj al Arab and Tom Kitchin’s Michelin-starred The Kitchin in Edinburgh – recently opened Ardfern, a new café, bar and bottle shop in Edinburgh’s Leith.
Taking its name from a childhood memory of a village in Argyll and Bute, Ardfern is Roberta’s third venture, joining The Little Chartroom and Eleanore. Ardfern offers a relaxed all-day experience, with brunch, bar snacks and heartier dinners alongside cocktails, draught beer and wine from its bottle shop.
Tell us about your background, Roberta?
I grew up in Edinburgh and have worked in restaurants since the age of 16. I went to a catering college in Glasgow before coming back to Edinburgh.
What first drew you to hospitality?
I grew up around food, my Dad was in the business so when I had to organise a week’s work experience I decided to try and get into a kitchen. I was instantly hooked, the buzz of service and the hustle and bustle of a kitchen suited
me.
When did you first realise you wanted to do this professionally?
Straight after my weeks work experience, I was pretty set on this as my career and I have never looked back.
What was your first big role?
Moving out to Dubai to work at The Burjal Arab was a big step for me, but the really defining one was when I joined The Kitchin in Edinburgh. This was a whole new world to me, the passion for Scottish produce was infectious.
What was that like?
It was incredibly hard and I was really out of my depth, but I was so determined to succeed. Cooking food at that level was incredibly rewarding and it taught me so many valuable lessons that I still apply to my everyday work now.
What made you take the leap to owning and running your own restaurant?
My husband (who is also my business partner and Front of House) and I believed we were ready to go out on our own and put everything we had learnt over our careers into practice, but put our own spin on it at the same time.
What was the jump from one to two restaurants like?
It was ok, I was heavily pregnant at the time so I had to put a lot of trust into the team. By being forced to take a step back, it made me delegate and allow the senior members of the team to shine. I am lucky to be surrounded by such a talented team so it was fairly smooth.
Tell us about your restaurants (ethos, food, service etc.) and how they differ.
The most important thing in our restaurants is good old-fashioned hospitality. I want guests to feel like they’re eating in my living room and want them to be welcomed with warmth, genuine friendliness and made to feel special. It is so important the entire team (front and back of house) understand that as our kitchens are open. If the welcome is cold, the food already tastes bad. The service has to be warm, friendly and knowledgeable but seem effortless.
First and foremost the food has to be delicious. We try to use as much Scottish produce as we can when it is in season, but equally if tomatoes from Italy are tasting the best then I will happily serve them.
The way I describe The Little Chartroom and eleanore is, The Little Chartroom’s food is more British and French, whereas eleanore’s menu is a little more worldly, it has more heat to its cooking. The atmosphere is different too, The Little Chartroom is bigger and more spacious, whereas eleanore is small and everyone is close together. But when they are both busy the atmosphere has to be electric!
Tell us about your newest site, Ardfern and what made you want to open it and go down a more wine bar approach?
We used to serve brunch at The Little Chartroom when it first opened and it was always really well received. It was incredibly approachable and it drew in a completely different crowd from dinner time. I always enjoyed serving more informal food that was just as focused on provenance and flavour.
The wine element of our offering has been driven by Finn, our Head Sommelier who has curated a really nice and approachable wine list to complement the food. Alongside that, we have around 10 aperitivo-style cocktails and draught beer so there is something for everyone.
What makes a great restaurant?
The Team! Warm, friendly service. Delicious food. Nice atmosphere and good music.
What are the changing trends in hospitality - people's expectations, new elements etc?
This isn’t new but there is definitely a move back towards more familiar food, roast chickens to share for the table etc. Not necessarily small plates but dishes that can be shared and bring everyone together. I think diners want to feel comfortable, and be assured before they arrive at a restaurant they are going to be getting value for money.
What are the major challenges at the moment?
Staffing has always been tricky but it does feel tougher now than in the past. Perhaps, this is amplified for me as we have had to hire a whole new team for Ardfern. The cost of running a business has gone up exponentially since we first opened up so this is tricky to manage, but I do believe if you can offer good, honest hospitality and delicious food we will come out the other side.
What are the main opportunities?
I have had great opportunities to travel and connect with chefs in other parts of the country, and even abroad. Collaboration has become a huge part of our industry and it’s an amazing way to continue learning and meet new people. I’ve been lucky enough to cook with chefs who use completely different food to me and I have learnt so much.
What do you do when you’re not working?
I have a two year old daughter so I try to spend as much time with her as possible. It’s been a juggle at times, but I think we are starting to find the balance. I do like to eat out as well and try new restaurants.
Any other plans on the horizon, for the next year?
I have a cookbook coming out on the 7th of November, The Changing Tides is an at- home cookbook split into four seasons. Each season ends with a dinner party menu and dishes are designed to be achievable for the most basic cooks. We spent a lot of time on the photography and I really hope people like the book and use it as it is intended, the recipes aren’t too strict and I would encourage people to take elements from one dish and use them with another.
